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Principe, From Two NoMad Alumni, Opens in SoHo

Jun 09, 2023

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off the menu

Midcentury style dining from an all-star team, intimate counter-style omakase and more restaurant news.

By Florence Fabricant

This seafood-forward restaurant is the work of Robert Goldman, a restaurant entrepreneur, and the executive chef Abram Bissell, formerly at the Modern, who met when both worked at the NoMad. Also from the NoMad is the pastry chef, Rebecca Isbell, here given the title of chef di farina (flour chef) in a nod to the Italian influences woven into the menu. Raw bar choices — including scallops with pistachios and sorrel, and oysters spiked with Meyer lemon, black pepper and chives — can ‌start the proceedings, possibly followed by a salad of Little Gem lettuce with colatura and mint; bucatini with lardo, black pepper and egg yolk; and basil tortellini in brown butter brodo. More substantial dishes include green olive-crusted branzino with lemon agrumato; crispy chicken with basil aioli and Aleppo pepper; and a charcoal-roasted whole turbot with lobster for two. Despite luxury touches of Venetian plaster, sumptuous fabrics, mother-of-pearl accents and an imposing Venetian chandelier, the two-story space also conveys a hint of the rustic with exposed beams and concrete walls. (Opens Thursday)

450 West Broadway (Prince Street), principe.nyc.

First built in 1897 and designated a New York City landmark a little more than 100 years later, the Martinique hotel near Herald Square (now the Martinique New York on Broadway) has been refurbished with this as the first of several new dining options on the premises. It features a team of heavy hitters: Franklin Becker, the chef, in partnership with Stephen Loffredo and Tora Matsuoka, along with the pastry chef Sam Mason and the bar director Max Green. The dining room represents the Mad Men era of the mid-20th century, with leather banquettes, a brass bar and a wine tower. The food does the same with Vidalia onion dip, caviar tater tots, a Waldorf-style salad, fettuccine Alfredo, and beef Wellington. New York is given its due with matzo ball soup and pastrami blintz. Mr. Mason contributes bananas Foster crème brûlée and baked alaska. (Monday)

Martinique New York, 1262 Broadway (32nd Street), pressclubgrill.com.

The name sounds like a command from the Turkish king of salted steak, but no. In this case “bae” is just a term of endearment, meaning that one should trust the omakase chef. From Simplevenue, the group that runs the Sushi by Bou locations, it’s similarly counter style, with eight seats. Erika London, the founder of Trust Bae, enlisted the cooking personality Rachael Ray as a consultant. The chef in charge, Frances Tariga, whose background is Filipino, has devised a tasting menu, 16 courses for $150 served in 90 minutes. The menu leads off with kaiseki, including several Filipino-inspired items, followed by a succession of nigiri, both classic and inventive. Subsequent locations are planned with other up-and-coming female chefs in charge. (Wednesday)

1204 Broadway (30th Street), 917-268-7268, trustbae.com.

At Cote in the Flatiron district — a Korean tabletop grilling experience that the owner has called a Korean steakhouse — elegant trappings, pedigreed ingredients, memorable wines and well-made cocktails are the norm. This new restaurant in Downtown Brooklyn takes a similar approach, getting its beef from Pat LaFrieda, DeBragga and Snake River Farms, and offering cuts like dry-aged rib-eye and prime hanger ($44 to $92; four cuts with sides, $69 per person, minimum two). The owners, Ju Young Oh and her husband, Min Sung Kang, who have a couple of Korean spots, surround the meats, which servers grill on soapstone-topped tables, with banchan meant for sharing. As at an American steakhouse, starters include oysters, shrimp cocktail and steak tartare along with Korean dishes like mandu dumplings, and pork belly kimchi stew.

294 Livingston Street (Bond Street), Downtown Brooklyn, 917-909-1122, attinyc.com.

A tour of Italy for breakfast (think panettone French toast), lunch and dinner (with regional specialties like Ligurian corzetti in walnut sauce; maccheroni alla Mugnaia, a hand-pulled pasta with ragù and cheese, from Abruzzo, also called miller’s wife pasta; and maritozzi cream-filled buns) has come to Le Méridien Fifth Avenue in NoMad. The chef Elio Albanese, who owns Antica Ristorante in the financial district and Allora 47 in Midtown, runs the show. Leather banquettes and swaths of Mediterranean blue create an elegant setting. (Wednesday)

Le Méridien Fifth Avenue, 292 Fifth Avenue (31st Street), 646-928-5198, alloraristorantenyc.com.

Inventive dim sum (only on Sundays) along with various libations made with ingredients from the “wellness” pantry (TCM, or traditional Chinese medicine), are offered by day in this new Bushwick spot. In the evening, it sets the stage for neo-Asian nightclub. (Wednesday)

1241 Flushing Avenue (Ingraham Street), Bushwick, Brooklyn, theredpavilion.com.

Waffles and ice cream are the stock-in-trade for this import from Los Angeles with franchise locations in several other cities. Desserts like Belgian waffles, Hong Kong bubble waffles and ice creams are served with a bevy of toppings weekdays from noon until 11 p.m., Fridays through Sundays until midnight. (Saturday)

137 First Avenue (Ninth Street), 212-951-1012, thedollyllamaus.com.

Tastemade, a media company with a global audience, is opening its first restaurant in the United States, part of the lineup in the Citizens New York Food Hall in the Manhattan West development. The tacos will be the work of Wes Avila, who founded Guerrilla Tacos in Los Angeles, where they took on global flavors. (Thursday)

Citizens New York Food Hall, Manhattan West, 398 10th Avenue (33rd Street), gobycitizens.com.

This is the second New York outlet for the entrepreneur Pinky Cole’s chain, joining a Brooklyn outpost that opened last fall and branches in Georgia and Alabama.

300 West 135th Street, sluttyveganatl.com.

The rotisserie and flatbread counter has reopened.

Third floor, Shops at Columbus Circle, 10 Columbus Circle, bangbar.xyz.

For the second time this year, St. John, the London restaurant that put nose-to-tail in high profile, will be in residence in Brooklyn. Through March 22, assorted St. John menu items will be offered at As You Are, the restaurant in the Ace Hotel Brooklyn. Baked quail eggs with trotters and bacon, ox cheek pie, and Dr. Henderson ice cream (flavored with Fernet Branca and crème de menthe). A tasting of all the dishes is $80, and madeleines will be sold at As You Are’s bakery.

As You Are, Ace Hotel Brooklyn, 252 Schermerhorn Street (Bond Street), Boerum Hill, Brooklyn, 718-303-3535, asyouarebk.com.

Highly anticipated, the new bakery from Amadou Ly, formerly at Arcade Bakery in TriBeCa, is to open in early April in Chelsea Market. In the meantime, a preview can be had on Saturday and on March 18 from 1 to 4 p.m. at Jac’s on Bond, when tote bags containing a laminated baguette, sourdough miche, two sandwiches, an apple galette and chocolate babka will be sold, $65. The totes can be reserved in advance.

26 Bond Street (Lafayette Street), alfbakery.com.

Next month, the chef Charlie Palmer will revisit Aureole, the Upper East Side restaurant where he rose to prominence, which moved to West 42nd Street in 2009 and then closed during the pandemic. For three nights, April 6 to 8, there will be five-course dinners, $165 including wine pairings, featuring dishes for which Aureole became known, notably a sea scallop sandwich from 1988. Chefs who worked at Aureole, including Bryan Voltaggio, Marcus Ware, Dante Boccuzzi and Richard Leach, will participate in the dinners, held across the street from the former Aureole, in the Knickerbocker Hotel, at Charlie Palmer at the Knick. After-dinner drinks will be served at St. Cloud, the hotel’s rooftop lounge. These dinners might be considered a preview of sorts; Mr. Palmer says he is definitely bringing Aureole back.

April 6 to 8, $165, theknickerbocker.com, Charlie Palmer at the Knick, Knickerbocker Hotel, 6 Times Square (42nd Street and Broadway).

When the high-profile chef and restaurateur René Redzepi recently announced that his signature restaurant, Noma, in Copenhagen, would close at the end of 2024, it had a seismic effect on the restaurant world. Now, more details of what comes after Noma have been unveiled. Noma Projects, the research and product development appendage that has already introduced several condiments, will expand into a larger space, permitting scaled-up production. New this year are a cep (porcini) oil and a rye whiskey vinegar. More are on the way.

nomaprojects.com.

Mr. Otomo (a.k.a. Tomo) has been named master sushi chef at the highly rated Sushi Yasuda in Midtown East, which opened in 1999. He succeeds Mitsuru Tamura, who had that title since 2011 when he replaced Naomichi Yasuda, the restaurant’s original and eponymous chef. Mr. Otomo will retain the restaurant’s omakase style, which he learned from Mr. Yasuda, with courses tailored to individual diners. A native of Furukawa, north of Tokyo, he has worked in Japan and in New York at Megu in TriBeCa (now closed). Mr. Tamura will remain at the sushi bar until the end of the month.

About a year ago, the highly rated Sushi Ginza Onodera opened a sushi bar in Tokyo, Ginza Onodera Touryumon, for training aspiring sushi chefs. Mr. Sato, having successfully completed his stint at Touryumon, is coming to New York this month to be a sous chef at the Midtown sushi bar.

461 Fifth Avenue (40th Street), 212-390-0925, sushiginzaonoderanewyork.com.

With its many regional and city editions, the Michelin guides and their star ratings have global impact. But its home base, France, is where it still has the most clout. The 2023 edition for France has added a new restaurant to its three-star category, La Marine, from the chef Alexandre Couillon, on the island of Noirmoutier just off the Western coast of France, bringing the total of three-star restaurants in France to 29. There are four new restaurants added to the two-star list: Cyril Attrazic in Aumont-Aubrac, southwest of Lyon; Château de Beaulieu in Busnes, in northern France; L’Amaryllis in Saint-Rémy in Provence; and L’Auberge de Montmin in Talloires-Montmin in the French Alps. Michelin also added 39 restaurants to its one-star category, bringing the total to 630 starred restaurants in France. The guide is available online and will be published on Friday.

guide.michelin.com.

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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks. More about Florence Fabricant

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